With less fog and wind, and more warmth, Labor Day weekend showcases the coast at it's best...
by George Lauer
 

   In most parts of our hemisphere, Labor Day marks the beginning of the end of outdoor endeavors.

   Not in the Bay Area.

   While our East Coast counterparts are putting away beach blankets and summer shorts, veterans of West Coast autumns are stocking up on sunscreen and getting out their surfboards.

   "The best two months around here are always September and October," says Ann Berger of the coastal resort community Sea Ranch.  "It's not as foggy, the winds die down -- or at least they start later in the day -- and the air is warmer."

   Some people call it Indian summer, although what exactly that means depends on where you grew up.  In the Midwest and East, it usually refers to a warm spell after the first frost of autumn or winter.  Not a strictly defined meteorological term, Indian summer is as much an emotional event as a scientific one.  It usually conjures up a wistful warmth, a time when it's great to be outside but you know your outdoor days are numbered -- and getting shorter.

   "It's not just a folk tale, it's real climatology," says Dave Reynolds, meteorologist with the U.S. Weather Service.

   There are all kinds of meteorological ways to explain it -- "onshore pressure gradients" meeting "dominant thermal lows" and "offshore flows," and "high-pressure systems" being affected by changes in water temperatures, the angle of the sun and "off-shore upwelling."

   Essentially it all means the transition from summer to winter in Northern California produces some of the best, warmest weather on the coast.  Every year.  Locals know it and look forward to it.  They also know the beauty that makes this coast spectacular is created by forces that can be dangerous to humans all year round.  Sleeper waves are legendary.

   "Some of the best days I've ever seen on the North Coast have been in October," say vintner, restaurateur and surfer Fred Cline.  "Last fall I saw pods of dolphins off Dillon Beach, just south of Bodega Bay in Marin County, in a different way.  Three years ago, he and his wife, Nancy, who also own Cline Cellars in Sonoma, bought Lawson's Resort at Dillon Beach, a collection of properties that includes a private beach and parking lot, Lawson's Store and the Patio Cafe.

   Cline, whose goal is to surf at least once a week, has been a regular at Dillon Beach for almost 15 years.

   "Every day I can get into the ocean is a very successful day, no matter what part of the year and no matter what the waves are like," Cline says.

   The Patio Cafe's outdoor deck next to Lawson's Store has tall, glowing heaters like huge, hot mushrooms, keeping outdoor diners warm 10 months out of the year.

   "The only time we get to turn them off and leave them off is September and October," Cline says.  "Sometimes it gets so hot out there you wish you had coolers instead of heaters.  That doesn't happen very often, but when it does, it's usually in the fall."

   Dining al fresco anywhere along the North Coast is an iffy proposition most of the year, but restaurant workers and picnickers agree your odds are best after Labor Day.

   "It's not the cold that drives people indoors, it's the wind," says Meg Kailikole of Gualala, "It's hard to enjoy yourself, let alone eat a meal when it's windy like this," she said, waving her arm at cypress trees bending and whipping the sky on a blustery Sunday at Gualala Point Regional Park.

   "Next month, the winds will start to die down, the fog will stay out there," she said, nodding toward the wind, blue expanse to the west, "and it will be a perfect time to do stuff outside."

   The range of stuff to do seems to expand after Labor Day.  There are dozens of ways and places to take advantage of the coast's brief balmy window in the fall.  Just use common sense to stay safe.

   People bundled up against the chill in July come back to the beach in October to sunbathe.  Some actually go swimming, boogle boarding and surfing without a wetsuit -- although the coastal waters can be perilous and its moods and tempers need to be respected.

   Some of the most popular stretches for sunbathing, swimming and general beach appreciation are Stinson Beach, Limantour Beach and Dillon Beach in Marin County, Doran Beach, Bodega Dunes and Salmon Creek near Bodega Bay, Wright's beach and Shell Beach a little farther north.

   Bird watchers shed layers and stay longer in prime birding spots like Point Reyes National Seashore, Audubon Canyon Ranch near Bolinas, Estero Americano near Bodega Bay and Estero San Julian near Dillon Beach.

   Kayakers and canoers stay out longer, plying calm, autumnal waters of Tomales Bay, Drake's Bay and three major rivers -- the Russian, the Gualala and the Big River near Mendocino.

   Tidepooling in the summer can require insulated waders and tow sweatshirts.  In October, it's usually shorts and bare feet braving crags and sharp rocks.

   "I know, it's usually a lot nicer out here in the fall, but you go to the beach when you have the chance to go to the beach," said Marla Olascoaga of Sonoma, bundled up against the August wind some weeks back and racing for the car at Gualala Point Regional Park.  Her kids are back in class now, but they may have a chance to hit the beach again under the warm autumn sun.

   "The least charming time out here is summer, but that's when the tourists come," says Ann Berger, an artist who works at The Cotton Field gallery and boutique in Gualala.  (Note: our neighbor at Celebrations!!!  ;)

   "It's mostly because of the school year, but if you don't have to worry about school and you're making plans to go to the beach in Northern California, make your trip sometime between Labor Day and Thanksgiving."

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WHAT TO DO
Suggestions for post-Labor Day visits to the North Coast

North Coast Artists' Guild of the Mendocino-Sonoma Coast
12th annual Studio Discovery Tour
This weekend and next, Sept. 4-5 and Sept 11-12.  Free, self-guided tours.
Information:  884-1138, www.studio-tours.com

Point Reyes National Seashore
Lighthouse, Point Reyes beaches, Tomales Bay, Tule elk reserve, hiking.

Dillon Beach
The Patio Cafe, outdoor dining, heaters or no heaters

Bodega Bay
Lucas Wharf, The Tides, Doran Park, Bodega Head beaches, Salmon Creek beach

Sonoma Coast State Beach
19 miles of coastline, many good hiking trails with spectacular views,
 third most popular state park in California

Jenner
River's End, Jenner Inn, Sizzling Tandoor
 (unlikely place for tasty Indian food at south end of Russian River bridge south of town)

Russian Gulch
Small parking lot, smaller sign a few miles north of Jenner offers good beach access, beautiful views

Fort Ross State Historic Park
A favorite school field trip destination

Stillwater Cove County Park
Secluded feel in a steep gulch

Gerstle Cove
Home of Gerstle Cove Underwater State Park, a favorite for divers

Sea Ranch
Miles of high-end homesteaders with a few beach access trails

Gualala Point Regional Park
Access to river and ocean.
Beach trail features hidden, mystical-looking gnarled-tree passage in stand of cypress

Town of Gualala
Art galleries, shops

Point Arena
Sea lion rocks popular haul-out spot, lighthouse

Manchester State Park and Marine Preserve
Good beach access, informative visitors center

Albion
Scenic spot where Navarro River hits the Pacific

Little River
Art galleries, bed-and -breakfast inns, Van Damme State Park, popular with abalone divers

Big River
Long, wide tidal estuary with bicycle, kayak and canoe rental place at the mouth.
Make sure you check the tides before you set out.

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